Winter officially began for the southern hemisphere last weekend, and around here that flimsiest of excuses is rationale enough for looking at Berluti's F/W 2014 collection on a day when an air conditioning failure would mean death for us all. A few highlights to add to one's shopping list for the one-percenters and to inspire imitation for the rest of us:
- The centerpiece of the collection is a really interesting peacoat/DB jacket hybrid, shown here in camel tan and russet red. This short outerwear piece is cut closely like a double-breasted sport or suit coat but with side slash pockets and executed in a rich wool (knowing Berluti, it probably has some sort of exotic cashmere content as well). A trim and clever silhouette that regardless shouldn't be immune to the usual buttoning rules.
- Meritorious use of suede and shearling. These rough materials add wonderful textures that contrast beautifully with your worsted dress trousers and complement things like wool flannel and canvas. Probably not the most practical choice for wet wintery weather. Is that going to stop anyone? Not really.
- Big, long, dramatic overcoats, simultaneously a bit fashion-forward (rather showy compared to your standard overcoat) and practical (it might actually fit over your suit and keep your legs warm). Belting these things saves them from shapelessness. Giant lapels show you aren't screwing around.