Unrefinery

The Latest: Tuesday 07 July 2015

Caruso, Giancarlo Giannini, and Oddball Pieces

Caruso has produced a promotional short video, The Good Italian, starring the supremely cool Giancarlo Giannini. Aliotsy of This Fits accurately describes it as "kinda corny, kinda charming". As a tool for promoting the brand's F/W 2015-16 collection, it's interesting that the most prominent piece featured would have to be characterized as sort of oddball: a somewhat loud tartan linen blazer with a mandarin collar and two lower back pockets. This is the kind of thing you'd never specifically go looking for, but once you find it, you realize it's more wearable than it sounds and it has the potential to become both a staple and a statement piece in your wardrobe. Maybe you then wonder how you lived without it. On the other hand, if you don't have $1,950 sitting around, maybe you'll find a way to continue doing so.
06.jul.2015 style
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Jagmeet Singh is a sartorial badass

It's Canada Day, and the Canadian contingent here at Unrefinery was already giddy over the prospect that the NDP's day may have finally come. Then we discovered Jagmeet Singh, representing the riding of Bramalea-Gore-Malton. Jagmeet is a style inspiration not just because of his professional attire—which is impeccable, drawing from a variety of classic tailoring traditions juxtaposed with his often colourful turbans—but his Instagram account shows he has a rare ability to kill it in situations from extremely casual to black tie.

When one investigates his policies, it turns out that this man is an all-around cool dude in addition to being incredibly stylish. Basically, then, he's the polar opposite of Stephen Harper.

We know what you're thinking, and for the record: if you're a Sikh, it's not a hipster moustache. It's just a moustache.
01.jul.2015 culture style
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The Pittiest Uomo at Pitti Uomo, 2015 | Fail

Congratulations to guy-on-the-left for almost making guy-on-the-right not look like a clown. We cropped them out for pity's sake, but points deducted because his purse doesn't match his double monkstraps (with one strap unbuckled, naturally).
29.jun.2015 style
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Two Things About Pitti Uomo That Don't Suck

1. Sarah Candee of Isaia.
2. Sarah Ann Murray of The Rake.

Everyone at Pitti is apparently required to wear garish colours in over-the-top patterns and be photographed talking on their cell phone. Somehow the results are a lot more pleasant with these two. (Not even the stripperishly-named Sarah Candee can redeem double monks, though.)
22.jun.2015 culture style
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60 Years of the Citroen DS

A nice feature on Al Jazeera celebrates the 60-year anniversary of the amazing Citroën DS. Achingly beautiful in a futuristic way that held up over time to become Jetsons-esque retro-futuristic, the car was also packed with technological innovations. Its hydropneumatic self-leveling suspension was unique to Citroën, and the use of hydraulics extended to the clutch and transmission. Rear turn signals were mounted up at the roofline for better visibility. By 1967 the car had gained steerable headlights. The DS also proved to be a remarkably versatile platform; you could cruise in the convertible version, make deliveries in the truck-like wagon, or win the Rallye Monte Carlo in the sedan. As a confluence of exquisite design, technology and capability, the DS remains unique. We may never see its like again.
08.jun.2015 design tech
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Nautical Stripe Buyer's Guide 2015

Some inexpensive staples are candidates for iterative buying, due to the nature of the materials and the environments in which they are worn, and the navy-and-white nautical striped pullover is one of them. Top picks for this year, both trad and unconventional:

Uniqlo Supima Short Sleeve T-Shirt [$20] — Frankly, the best example of the genre we've ever seen; the reinforced neck means it sits well under a blazer and the stripe colour and width are ideal.

Massimo Dutti Navy Stripe Sweater [$90] — A really interesting remix of the theme in a highly textured casual sweater.

Zara Striped Linen T-Shirt [$26] — Loosely fitting, almost a boatneck, not ideal for layering but a great pairing with shorts or to throw on poolside.

Uniqlo Washed Long Sleeve T-Shirt [$15] — A slightly warmer, heavier option. Runs a bit small so size up.
04.jun.2015 style
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The New BR, huh?

A current Banana Republic campaign promotes "The New BR", the aesthetic of which seems reminiscent of other brands' existing formulae. Some of the pieces, like the $175 linen blazer shown at left, look decent and wouldn't be out of place at guilty pleasure fast fashion vendors like Zara or Mango. As far as the styling goes, however, BR seems to think that the combination of dinky-lapeled suiting of dubious third-world provenance with bent-back cuffs, yanked-out collars and generally sh*tted-up fits is going to turn them into J.Crew. Actually, do they have a point?
01.jun.2015 style
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Brown and Light Blue

If navy and white is be the most obvious spring/summer colour combination, brown and light blue might be the most unexpected. Typically thought of as the most autumnal colour, brown's inherent warmness is played up when paired with cool sky blue. A classically American combination when brown is the predominant partner, when switched around it also seems to work fine on the Scot shown here.
18.may.2015 style
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Cheap Summer Suits For The Kids

Brands like Suitsupply and Benjamin Sartorial have done a tremendous service in bringing affordable quality suits down to the $600 range, but we'll acknowledge that to a young person who needs more than one—or who wants to wear a suit casually—the dreaded sub-$400 market might get a look. In the past the usual pitfalls with buying cheap suits from fast-fashion brands were:
  • Fused-to-sh*t construction
  • Lapels of skinny, unsatisfying girth
  • Polyester blends (shudder)
The first issue is greatly mitigated for summer suits, which tend to be minimally structured and will suffer a lot less from having sub-par layers in the upper jacket. The latter two are addressed by new seasonal offerings from Zara and Mango, featuring nicely proportioned lapels and synthetic-free warm-weather blends. All of them work as separates too, increasing their utility. That said, these are still younger man's suits with their lower-rise trousers and generally slim silhouettes throughout.

Zara Indigo Birdseye Double-Breasted Suit [$300] — 80% wool, 20% linen. Up close the texture reads as a sort of slubby birdseye.

Zidane for Mango Florida Suit [$130] — 52% cotton, 48% linen. Available in navy and khaki. The shortest jacket length of the bunch but also the nicest lapel and shoulder cut. Unbeatable price; if it fits you, get both colours.

Mango Cotton Poplin Suit [$240] — 100% cotton. Partially lined, in a beautiful lighter blue. Something resembling pick stitching on the lapels and pocket flaps for junior sartorialist street cred.
11.may.2015 style
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Everything Karl Lagerfeld Hates

Complex Magazine's Four Pins website did the meticulous media research necessary and produced A Comprehensive List Of Everything Karl Lagerfeld Hates. And far be it for us to extend charity towards the man who designed those f*cking Chanel purses, but he makes a lot of good points. Selfies, children, telephones, being touched by strangers... these things all pretty much suck. Filthy-rich do-gooders. Sweatpants. When he's right he's right.
30.apr.2015 culture style
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