The Latest: Friday 18 May 2012
Everything old is new again, sport coat editionThe jacket on the left is from the collection of one Tom Ford, and who else could it be? Those strong shoulders, "FU" colour, ticket pocket, mid-height button point, and naturally epic lapels are all trademarks of the label, and this prime example is believed to be from the A/W 2011 collection.The corduroy jacket on the right is from The Men's Store at Sears, Roebuck and Co., circa 1974. Not sayin' anything, just sayin'. 18.may.2012 style | |
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Howard Yount Jackets, S/S 2012 | BuyA new season of Howard Yount jackets is here, and this latest of designer Jamison Stoltz' all-too-limited runs includes some real gems. The strength of the collection this time around is in the tropic-weight wool sport coats, which are about as minimally constructed as they could be while still retaining their shape. The lightweight wools, which include some rich and beautiful Zegna fabrics, offer the warm-weather comfort of linen blends but with a softer, crease-free drape. Highlights include a beautiful green windowpane that all but disappeared seemingly within hours, a light neutral plaid, and a cashmere/silk fully-canvased jacket in a lustrous deep royal blue herringbone that is what those in the menswear industry like to call (to use a strictly technical term) "baller as f**k".16.may.2012 style | |
In praise of the M-65 Field Jacket | BuyThe greatest product designs are those that merge aesthetics and functionality without sacrificing either for the other, and by that standard few items of clothing are more successful than the M-65 Field Jacket. Originally designed for the US military, this cotton/nylon coat's first major deployment came during the war in Vietnam where its ability to keep soldiers warm and dry was quite possibly the only thing about the entire conflict that went according to plan.The M-65's design is full of utilitarian details, including extended box pleats on the back for ease of movement and a snap-up placket covering the zipper to prevent a crawling soldier from getting snagged on the ground. Many of these same details are flattering to the wearer, such as a built-up collar and a pair of midsection drawcords that give this otherwise boxy jacket a proper waist. Modern M-65s are made in a variety of colours, and the best designs are still the most authentic. Obviously you want to avoid camo and olive; black, navy and khaki all look great. Some of the best-made M-65s come from Alpha Industries; interestingly, their hard-to-find American-made coats run about $80 and since they started manufacturing them in China pricing seems to have gone up to around $125. Not quite sure what happened there. Important sizing note: these things run REALLY big. Seriously, if you wear a 40 suit, you'll probably be more than comfortable in a small. So size down by at least one unless you want to wear it as a droopy-shouldered tent like De Niro did in Taxi Driver. 14.may.2012 style | |
Who, What, Wear @ Studio Museum in HarlemWhen Samuel Fosso set up his camera in 1976 to capture this self-portrait (left), his intent was to stage himself as part of a cosmopolitan pop culture—essentially the same goal of nearly every social media user today who ever dresses up and points a camera phone at a mirror or holds it at arm's length. As part of the Studio Museum in Harlem exhibition Who, What, Wear: Selections from the Permanent Collection, the photograph helps to tell a larger story of how style, self-expression, and the mirror of society have evolved over time. If you'll be in the New York area before May 27, 2012, it's well worth the visit. Also in the show: Hurvin Anderson's exquisite Mrs. S. Keita – Turquoise (right). | |
Three questions about contrast-trim woven shirts | Fail1. Has this ever been done tastefully?2. Is it even possible to do this tastefully? 3. Who the hell is buying all of this Tailorbyrd and Robert Graham crap, anyway? 07.may.2012 style | |
A little red, a lot of tan | BuyUnlike brick red, which has a bit of a neutral aspect to it, bright primary reds pack a lot more visual punch—a little goes a long way. Guido's post last week is a good example of how well the smallest hits of red warm up those most neutral of neutrals, tan and khaki tones. Left to right: Vintage Helmut Lang polo. Happy Socks. Brooks Brothers Black Fleece sweater.04.may.2012 style | |
Mailbag: James browses GQ Magazine's Tommy Ton event photo gallery and things get ugly | Failjames writes: "Superfecta of men's fashion blogworld douchebaggery right here:
If only we'd gotten The Unrefilter finished in time. We could have prevented all of this. | |
The cheap summer scarf | BuyCheap shoes may be a false economy, but inexpensive, lightweight scarves are a welcome spring tradition. They don't really wear out, and there's no good reason why a 6'x2' rectangle of cotton and/or linen should cost all that much, so the cheap scarf represents an opportunity to try out a few styles and brands without making a major investment. A $10 scarf will keep the chill off your neck more or less as well as a $100 one. Shown left to right: H&M [$13]. Zara [$20]. H.E. by Mango [$40].30.apr.2012 style | |
The Impending Tom Ford InterventionWe've been looking at these photos of Tom Ford at the Vogue Festival, and here's what we've decided: As soon as his lapels reach his shoulders, or his necktie becomes wider than his head, we're going to call somebody.27.apr.2012 style | |
The Betabrand Executive Pinstripe HoodieOur usual reaction when discovering a new product from Betabrand is something along the lines of "That's really clever. Completely unwearable, but clever." They may however be on to something with the Executive Pinstripe Hoodie, made of 100% worsted wool with a vaguely coat-like construction. A bit of a practicality fail as you wouldn't want to wear it in even the lightest drizzle, but as a casual jacket it would sort of rock. Having real pockets instead of that kangaroo pouch was a good decision. It just needs buttons instead of a zipper.25.apr.2012 style | |
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