The Latest: Saturday 25 May 2013
Here's the thing about authenticity documentsDana Thomas' highly recommended book Deluxe documented well the continually escalating war between the purveyors of luxury goods and those seeking to counterfeit them. Brands like Louis Vuitton are particularly up against it as the quality of the genuine article and that of fake products are nearly at parity. For the rest, authenticity documents are one method frequently used—and it seems frankly a bit silly: It's hard to imagine that anyone with the ability to manufacture shoes, sunglasses or handbags would really have all that much trouble cranking out gold-embossed cards. It also doesn't help that if you buy genuine, real, bona fide Tom Ford sunglasses from a reputable retailer like Neiman Marcus, they will come in beautiful packaging with a woven envelope containing a genuine, real, bona fide authenticity card that reads:Congratulations you have chosen a really authentic Tom Ford product. The presence of a clumsy Italian-to-English translation would seem less reassuring than not including an authenticity card in the first place. | |
Mailbag: Is it time to give up Fast Fashion?BBiohazard writes: "Would Unrefinery please comment on the 'Slow Fashion' movement? I really want to buy ridiculously low priced stuff from Zara and Uniqlo, but people are making me feel bad about it. Should I feel bad? If I spend $200 on a hand-made in the USA t-shirt will it really last me forever? I hate what happened in Bangladesh, but I still want me some cheap clothes :("Answer: It's a noble sentiment, and if it were only that easy then sure—if it were 100% certain that changing buying habits would save lives we'd all do it. But many, many factors muddy the waters, including the following:
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Don't be afraid of the dark (linen) | BuyLinen being a warm-weather material, and summer being the season of light colours, most of us probably limit our linen purchases to a colour spectrum ranging from white to pale blue to some sort of tan. But of course even black linen retains the open weave and heat dissipation characteristics that make this fabric so wearable, and it's only by contrast with a darker element that we appreciate the brightness of the lighter. Mixing in one dark linen piece is also an easy transitional step for those of us who aren't used to going full-on light or who don't quite have the complexion to avoid looking like an ice cream salesman. Shown left to right: Ralph Lauren Black Label chocolate brown linen shirt [$375]. Brooks Brothers navy Milano cotton/linen pants [$118]. Tommy Hilfiger linen v-neck sweater [$148].20.may.2013 style | |
Ride 'em in, cowhide... | BuyFound Object are known for their repurposing and reimagining of world textiles such as Uzbeki Suzanis ad Ikats into pillows, totes and ottomans. We're digging their collection of $230 cowhide duffle bags, offered in a variety of interesting and naturally unique hides with heavy cotton linings and interior pockets. The removable strap turns an in-your-face gym bag into in-your-face travel luggage. Rollin', rollin' rollin'... | |
Mailbag: Can I wear a keffiyeh?Harvey asks: "Is it ever okay to wear a keffiyeh? Is it a hippie thing? Is it a drug thing?" Answer: It's an Arabic and/or Kurdish thing. Typically the rule about ethnic-specific garments like the keffiyeh, kimono or yarmulke is that you don't wear it unless it is a legitimate part of your heritage.That said, this particular type of scarf has proven to have a lot of value as a sharp object with which to jab bigots. Arab-hater Michelle Malkin notably lost "her" s**t a few years ago when dining-without-tipping enthusiast Rachael Ray showed up in a donut commercial wearing a silk paisley scarf that only vaguely resembled the traditional checked cotton headdress in question. So a few other applications have merit. Wear one if you have a shaved head and enjoy sending rednecks into a tizzy. Or if you and your fellow SEALs picked one up as a souvenir during a 2011 jaunt into Pakistan. Or, you know, if it looks good on you and you want to keep your neck warm on a cool day. Photo right: Diego Lema | |
Hey, remember when Givenchy was relevant? | FailNeither do we.10.may.2013 style | |
Suitsupply in Philadelphia | BuyIf the economic recovery is proceeding slowly, someone forgot to tell Suitsupply, who this month continued their aggressive momentum in the US market with the opening of their latest store in Philadelphia. And while anyone who's visited their New York shop will find the decor and concept familiar, according to Suitsupply's Filipe Bataglia this is just the beginning—they're taking over the whole building, and the current two stories will expand with additional floors for custom tailoring, private shopping, and more.The offering of a store-exclusive piece is kind of a neat idea, as it gives the online or visiting Suitsupply customer a reason to stop in when in town. In Philadelphia's case it's an ultra-light safari-style jacket made out of what feels like shirting fabric—belted, four pockets, but casual enough to roll the sleeves and layer minimally (if at all). 08.may.2013 style | |
Bashar al-Assad is one sorry excuse for a strongman | FailYou find out what a man is really made of when he becomes the militant nutbag leader of a low-rent country. One of the perks of being a strongman is that you have the freedom to establish your own dress code with the access to materials and financial resources to make it happen. Which makes Syria's Bashar al-Assad all the more pitiful. Although his lack of a chin and comically long neck are contributing factors to why he looks terrible in every photo, his suit selection shows that he isn't really trying—any tailor, or even his inexplicably hot wife, must have told him that the dated big low lapel notch and ill-fitting shoulders aren't helping. Apparently he doesn't care. Clearly it's time for this guy to go.In contrast, the late Muammar al-Gaddafi also looked terrible in every photo, but at least he went for it: he bought a bunch of dresses from Lane Bryant, had matching hats made, rounded up an all-female team of bodyguards and dressed them like Michael Jackson's backup dancers. That right there is how you roll. | |
Michael Bastian polos for UniqloUniqlo has done well with its designer collaborations to date, from the expansive Jil Sander +J collection to Orla Kiely's small set of women's scarves and dresses. This time they've brought in Michael Bastien of Gant fame for a series of polo shirts, dropping May 20 in-store and online. The result is not so much a collection of polos as it is an exploration of what the polo shirt can be, with almost 50 designs spanning solids and patterns, spread collars and button-downs, pockets and pieced, with the common threads being a slim fit with flattering sleeves and a $20 price point. Design cues span from retro to utterly modern and there are as many highly wearable options as there are bright and garish. Really looking forward to this. More at Selectism and The New York Times.03.may.2013 style | |
Beyond Redemption, Volume 1 | FailThe fashion industry's business model is predicated upon public acceptance of the idea that the clothes you own will periodically be deemed unwearable, requiring you to buy new crap, which in turn will eventually give way to some variation of all that stuff you gave away to Goodwill in the first place. And while some previously hopeless styles have undergone radical modernization and emerged truly renewed—the double breasted suit comes to mind—we need to accept that others are down for the count... and good riddance. From left to right:
01.may.2013 style | |
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